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Palermo PALERMO The golden gates of Sicily Turbulent, noisy, contradictory and compelling, the golden gateway to the Capital of Sicily is impossible to ignore. The beautiful decaying city, once the seat of the Arab Emirate rivals that of any European cities today. Behind the crumbling facades of this metropolis you will find the intoxicating mixes of cultural, architectural and historical legacies. A classical city of the south, Palermo was once known as the grandest seat of Europe and influential Norman kingdom; today however the lustre of the golden gates to the Mediterranean looks to the outsider a little tired. But behind the decay, Palermo is a fascinating city and has a most interesting cross- fertilization culture. The assets left behind here; have to be seen rather than read about and once on foot in the centre you can get to grips with its demanding needs and people. A cautious but warm and friendly bunch the Palermitans are passionate and energetic about there city as they are about life, ladies sit chatting on there balconies whilst bread gets hauled up from the street below. A feast for all the senses, Palermo for the tourist is usually avoided but this is a pity and if you truly want to get to grips with Sicily then this is the place to start.  One of the central points of the historical centre is called Quattro Canti, the literal meaning of the “four corners, although is known locally as the Teatro del sole (theatre of the sun). This is where the busiest roads in Palermo meet and if you take a little time to admire the wonderful marble statues that sit reaching to the sky, it won’t be long before chaos will ensue. From here you can walk to the breathtaking, open square of Piazza Giuseppe Verde where the huge opera house sits (Teatro Massimo) for those of you that are godfather buffs, you will recall the closing sequence in the 3rd of the trilogy, when Al Pacino and his family where set upon with guns on the steps of the theatre. Today after some twenty four years of restoration it is open for business, and giving us glorious operatic performances once again. Tel: 091 605 31 11; One of the highlights of visiting Palermo is the Cappella Palatina Chapel Tel: 091 705 48 79; 9am- 11.45am & 3-5 Mon-Fri, 9am- 11.45am Sat & Sun) A bijoux interior designed by the very influential Roger II in 1130, this building has some fine examples of mosaics and precious marble, gold inlaid glass gives the chapel a gem quality and most of the works are incredibly intricate and detailed.This is one of the busiest tourist sites in the city so be prepared to queue, once you have acquired your ticket they limit the amount of people coming through the doors at any one time, a very badly managed affair but don’t be put off as you will be rewarded with one of Sicily’s finest sites. There are so many stories surrounding the city of Palermo but one of them that hold true is the name of the valley that snakes around the area. Known as the Conca D’Oro or to locals the “Golden valley” the significance of the name is due to the many orange and lemon trees that would create a golden light at sunset. Today however it is a little less dramatic as the expansion of Palermo’s urban sprawl has all but diminished the beautiful valley floor. In this area atop the famous mountain of Monte Pellegrino (606m) sits the majestic palace of Monreale, the story of this monument is one that every palermitan holds dear to there heart. Admission Free; 091 640 44 13, 8am- 6pm, treasury 9.30am- noon &3.30-5.30pm) A tale of heavenly visions was met with strength to create the most beautiful structure that Sicily had ever seen. William II sitting ever in the shadow of his grandfather Roger II was determined to out do his ancestors who built the very substantial Cathedral of Cefalu, not to be out done William employed the services of an architect who was in deliberate opposition to his rival Walter of the mill ( the palermitan archbishop). What was created is one of the most impressive examples of middle age Italian architecture that near takes your breath away when you first step inside the doors. Incorporated into the mosaics are over 1600 kilos of pure gold, which has stood the test of time and shines as brightly today as when first constructed. One of the highlights of Monreale is visiting the cloisters; here you will receive the awe inspiring views over the area of Palermo and on a clear day out to the Aeolian Islands. Said to be one of Williams’s favourite spots, the Arab artistry is really to be admired in this tranquil shimmering courtyard. (€4.50); 9am-7pm Mon- Sat, 9am- 1.30pm Sun).  There are so many wonderful historic monuments in the centre and around Palermo that it is near impossible to mention them all. With book in hand you can navigate the centre with ease and although choked with traffic at certain parts of the day, remains ever splendid in its ability to tell its majestic story through the eyes of the people and its landmarks, as we walk down the centuries with this powerful city at our feet. Please remember the three golden rules when travelling in any foreign city; Be safe Be smart Be cautious. This means in effect that you are in a big city that has a lot of theft daily, beware of your bag and belongings at all times and never leave unattended. Travelling alone is fine, but remembering to take care at night and stay in well lit, busy areas. If offered rides by local people in and around the city, it is better to gracefully decline and walk away, not all strangers have bad intentions but its better to be safe. It is recommended to travel into Palermo by Train or bus as the traffic situation can be a shock to those who are not used to foreign cities, also parking your car can be a problem. All trains arrive into Central station some 5 minutes walk from the centre, taxi ranks outside the station are fine but ask for the price for where you’re going before you get in and then you will not have a surprise at your destination. Note: (City taxis have a surcharge on there fares so expect to pay more than usual.) |
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